The skin is the largest organ of the body, and a healthy, functioning barrier should always be the first priority when it comes to treating the skin. We have a responsibility to protect and bring health to the barrier. Day-to-day life can certainly take its toll on the skin, weakening the barrier, with elements like pollution, stress, blue lights from computers and smart phones, UV rays, medications and autoimmune diseases. In the treatment room and home care recommendations can create a weakened barrier as well if we are not careful and aware. Things like too many aggressive treatments or treatments being done too close together will breakdown the skin barrier. Also, harsh home topicals and over-cleansing and over-exfoliating all contribute to a compromised barrier.
The skin barrier serves an important role in protecting us from toxins, bacteria, infection, and DNA-damaging elements. A stronger barrier allows the skin to age slower, be less sensitive and function in its highest ability.
When the barrier function is disrupted, skin becomes highly sensitive and quick to react to inferior products. Signs that the skin may be compromised might include dryness, redness, flaking and itching. And to make matters worse, when skin is dehydrated, it sends out a message to sebaceous glands to produce excess oil. This in turn can cause pores to swell and trap bacteria – creating an inflammatory response in skin. With a compromised barrier, you want to lessen forced exfoliation and begin to repair from the inside out.
Strengthen The Dermis
The dermal layer of the skin (the inner layer of the two main layers of skin – includes connective tissue, blood vessels, oil and other structures) is the precursor to a strong epidermal layer (the thin, outer layer of skin that is visible to the eye) and a properly functioning barrier. Think of the dermis existence to heal, protect and feed the epidermis.
The dermis needs and uses resources to provide healthy collagen, elastin, hyaluronic acid and blood vessels for the epidermis and the new cells making their way to the barrier. The fibroblast cells in the dermis can become depleted naturally as well as quicker than they should by all the elements we discussed in the opening – pollution, over exfoliating and so forth. With the application of encapsulated retinaldehyde, stem cells, and pyruvic acid, you can restore and fortify the dermis while optimizing cellular energy and cellular function.
Rebuild The Epidermis
Repairing and rebuilding the epidermal layer relies on an abundance of resources, including those received from the dermis and topical vitamins and antioxidants. Vitamins A, C, and E offer both strengthening and antioxidant properties. In addition, these nutrients assist in thickening the dermal layer, defending against free radical damage, and healing weakened barriers.
Restore Lipids and Hydration
Compromised barriers typically have a breakdown of lipids and suffer from trans epidermal water loss (TEWL), which can be remedied with specialized hydration and lipid support. A healthy lipid profile is essential when working to strengthen the barrier. Various humectants, organic oils, and omegas bind and seal moisture into depleted skin, increasing hydration levels, improving overall barrier function and reducing irritations and reactiveness.
What is Trans Epidermal Water Loss?
You may have heard this term in recent years and wondered what it means for the skin. Trans Epidermal Water Loss (TEWL) is water evaporating from the epidermis. Let’s take a deeper look into the causes and what is happening to the skin.
What’s Happening to the Skin?
Water and moisture from the dermis travels through the epidermis layers. A small percentage of water loss in the skin is expected; however, when this occurs on a much larger scale, skin can see increased dryness, sensitivities and even flaking.
The stratum corneum, top layer of the epidermis, has a “brick and mortar” appearance. The “bricks” are the skin cells and the “mortar” are intercellular lipids. When skin is experiencing a loss in lipids and the “mortar” begins breakdown down, hydration evaporates out of the skin, leading to TEWL. This leaves the skin with irritation, dryness and more vulnerable to allowing pathogens to enter the skin.
Causes of TEWL
There are many factors that may lead to Trans Epidermal Water Loss, one of the most common cause is over-exfoliation of the skin. This may be initiated from excessive use of alpha and beta hydroxy acids, the use of prescription topicals or using a scrub or other exfoliant too frequently. Certain professional treatments performed too close together can also trigger TEWL.
Other causes include medications that deplete hydration and lipids in the skin, environment changes such as extreme heat and dryness or extreme cold and snow. Skin disorders such as atopic dermatitis, eczema and psoriasis, as well as auto-immune diseases can lead to this change in the skin.
Preventing TEWL
Restoring lipids and hydration is the key to remedy or prevent Trans Epidermal Water Loss. Hydration needs to be a blend of humectants as well as lipids to help bind and seal in moisture, repairing the barrier the function and decreasing water loss.
Simple Tips for a Healthy Barrier
The good news is since our cells are constantly turning over and renewing themselves, topical skin care products can go a long way in resuscitating compromised barriers. Keep it simple and stay hydrated! Try using products with hyaluronic acid, refined oils and omegas to bind and seal in moisture–and drink more water! Use lifestyle-friendly correctives to rebuild the skin like encapsulated retinaldehyde or a gentle rejuvenator containing mandelic acid to encourage new cells.
Remember anytime we have new cells coming to the surface, we have an opportunity to feed the skin to help those cells become more and more strengthened. Epidermal growth factors are found in our skin both the dermis and epidermis layers. These growth factors are essential to wound care and cell mitosis. When adding this topically, it increases the repair and strengthen of cells.
Nourish the skin daily with vitamins and nutrients. Look for formulations that contain powerful antioxidants, vitamins and amino acids. Use masks that provide soothing, healing and hydrating benefits. Incorporating a therapeutic mask into a weekly skin care program can make a big difference for the barrier. Look for masks that contain rich, nourishing elements such as milk protein or shea butter and even grape seed to reduce irritations and redness.
Take the First Step
Consistency and simplicity will be key at home, and each skin will require a specific, customized home care plan. However, there is one rather rudimentary step for those with compromised barriers, but it is the most often missed mark and yet the single most important.
Proper cleansing sets the tone for any skin care regimen and is essential for overall skin health. Skimping on this process can cause build-up in the pores, which means even the most powerful serums, gels and moisturizers will be rendered ineffective.
Most people under-cleanse and over-moisturize, piling ingredients, sun protection and makeup on the skin causing buildup, which results in impurities among other skin issues. The simple act of cleansing can prevent a number of challenges that often result in compromised barriers.
How to Clean Your Way to Healthier Skin
It is important to understand how to cleanse skin and take time to ensure skin is free of surface residue and makeup. Always apply cleanser with dampened hands to face and neck and work into skin for several minutes. Remove cleanser with a dampened 4 x 4 gauze or white soft cloth. Using white is helpful because it lets you see how clean your skin is. If nothing is on the cloth after several rinses, then you know the skin is clean. Make sure to pat the skin dry before applying anything else on the skin after cleansing.
Moisturizing and Healing Cleansers
Look for cleansers with the right combination of soothing, hydrating and healing ingredients that thoroughly cleanse without stripping the skin of nutrients and moisture. Be sure to check the ingredient decks for surfactants that will leave the lipid profile intact and don’t contain dyes, synthetic fragrances, sodium lauryl sulfates, parabens or phthalates. For a healthy barrier, we suggest cleansers with the following ingredients:
Sodium Lauryl Sarcosinate. This gentle surfactant derived from coconut cleans skin by attracting excess oil and skin debris so it may be rinsed away.
Organic Grape Seed Oil. Grape seed oil is a powerful antioxidant with a small molecular structure that penetrates quickly, providing hydration at a deeper level. It protects capillary walls, acts as an MMP inhibitor, provides anti-inflammatory support, promotes tissue elasticity and healing, strengthens skin and restores collagen.
Milk Protein. With a pH close to the skin’s own pH level, it allows skin to more effectively absorb its hydrating properties and naturally soothe with vitamin support.
Shea Butter. This natural, plant-based fat moisturizes and protects skin from dehydration.
Zeolite. Zeolite is a mineral formed from the mixing of volcanic ash with seawater that pulls and absorbs toxins and impurities from the skin and rinses away.
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